April 27, 2025
~ submitted by Evan Martin
The group met in Nanaimo before driving to the Cameron Main gate. The drive gave us a chance to get to know each other, review group safety gear, and align expectations before hitting the trailhead. We arrived at the gate at 8:20 a.m. and found two other cars waiting. From a past trip, I knew the gate is “unlocked” rather than “opened” at 8:00, so we pulled around and Evan hopped out to open it — earning some surprised looks from the other drivers.
Concerned about potential wet loose avalanches due to unseasonably warm temps, we parked at the bottom of the Lost Gully spur and committed to walking the road back later. After organizing gear, Evan led us up the spur road to the trailhead and into the forest.
The initial trail climbed steadily up through a cut block and into older growth. Eventually, we reached a small cliff band that was simple to scramble. From the top, we got our first clear view of the Lost Gully. As we gained elevation, snow patches began appearing, and the trail became harder to follow. A handline was found on the next set of cliffs, though I had already taken a higher route and bypassed it without trouble. I’m still puzzled by the rope and left behind rap gear — it seemed unnecessary with such as easy way around.
After a bit more easy route-finding, we reached a heather slope that led to the base of the gully. We paused there to do a quick ice axe review with the member who was new to snow travel. We put on harnesses, but the snow was soft and patchy enough that we kept our crampons in our packs.
The Lost Gully has two main parts: the first section climbs to a col on the ridgeline, and the second continues up to the south summit. The lower section was a mix of snow and rock; followed by a short rocky step before gaining consistent snow in the upper gully. We exited climber’s right just below a small cornice — unseen from the gully base — and negotiated a forming moat, which added some challenge but was manageable.
Evan led a short, exposed snow crux to gain the South Summit. With time tight (and our pace slower than expected), we didn’t linger. Rather than downclimb the gully, we agreed to finish the loop. The traverse to the main summit was intimidating at first glance, with several sharp bumps to cross. But taking it one section at a time, and staying well back from the corniced edge, we picked our way across.
Despite looking vertical from afar, each bump revealed a weakness up close, and route-finding became intuitive. Soon, we stood on the true summit under blue skies. I’ve climbed Arrowsmith five times, but this was the first time I had unobstructed summit views.
With the 4:00 gate closure looming, we stopped only for a quick snack before we began our descent down Judges. Once in the trees, we split the group: two of us hiked ahead to grab the truck, while the others continued behind us. The only other person we saw all day was a solo hiker in shorts and sneakers, who thought Arrowsmith was a “year-round” hiking trail!
Despite our best efforts, we didn’t make it to the gate by 4:00—but fortunately, the gate closer was running late too, and we made it out without issue.
Overall, everyone did great. While the rope stayed in the pack, I was glad we brought it and will do so again the next time I climb the Lost Gully. Hats off to our member’s first snow climb! We moved steadily and safely, and the group kept good judgment throughout — a successful trip.